I finally worked up the courage and the ganas to do my own belt replacement / oil change / valve adjustment on the ST 4. So far it has broken down (poor choice of words) as follows:
Day 1: Remove bodywork, drain and replace oil;
Day 2: Drain coolant, remove expansion bottle;
Day 3: Remove radiator, remove belt covers;
Day 4: Run over to Sears for a couple of offset wrenches to remove belt tensioners.
By springtime I should be done.