The lack of a flywheel nut should have been a tipoff.
Today I set the timing and was getting improved spark. Great, let me see if the PO put oil in the bike. Hmm, only a few oz of sludge.
I figured I would use the sludge-draining time to check the valves.
Got the valve cover off and there is 1/2 inch of play. I removed the pushrods and removed the head. Now I see that I appear to be missing a cam follower.
Bottom line: Can anyone sell me a cam follower?