There are fires all along the coast of Mexico, along roadsides and in fields. I accidentally rode through a sheet of fire that was whipped up by the wind - I told Guy "no need to shave today, all the exposed hairs on my body are singed off." Old cars and trucks add their clouds of blue-black exhaust to the mix. Guy has had a terrible cough for a week and we both have big nasty boogers at the end of each day. Yuck.