My wife and I took a trip through the Southwest last year and unfortunately during the trip I developed a wobble. I tracked it down to the spokes and when I returned I put the bike in the back of the garage to deal with later. Well I was a bad owner and it was a year later when I got to it. So the battery was dead, I had lost the screws to the headlamp I was repairing and the spokes were still loose. So with Las Vegas Bikefest on the horizon, and me not wanting to ride the sportbike down there, I decided to get this thing back up and running. The shops that true spokes all wanted the wheel off the bike, so I had to learn how to do it. With the Clymers manual and my tools I figured it out. Here is how I did it. . .
You will need the following tools:
- A motorcycle jack
- Size 19 wrench
- Size 19 ratchet
- Size 14 ratchet or wrench
- Size 12 ratchet or wrench
- Torque wrench
- Allen wrenches
- Lithium grease
Unbolt the torque arm (size 12 bolt) . . .
. . .and unscrew the brake rod from the drum.
Move to the other side and remove the four gearcase bolts (size 14).
At this point raise the jack so that the tire is still resting on the ground but all weight is off of it. This will make the next step easier. With a wrench holding the right axel bolt (size 19) . . .
and another wrench on the left side, loosen the bolt.
With the nut loosened you can roll the wheel backwards disengaging the shaft. Roll the wheel back until it hits the fender. Then lift the jack so that you can get the wheel out from under it.
To install the wheel, remove the U-joint cover and lubricate the splines of the shaft and U-joint and reverse the steps to remove the wheel. But finger tighten all the bolts before turning to the proper torque.
The torque specs for each bolt is . . .
Rear axle nut - 92 N-m
Gearcase bolts - 70 N-m
Torque arm nut - 20 N-m